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Home
>> Bridge School >> Lesson 9 -Two Club
Opening Bids
"Partner, do I have good news for you!"
Two Club Openers
Sometimes (although never often enough for avid bridge
players) you'll be dealt very good cards like these hands:
Hand A)
AKQ9765
AK
AQJ
2
or
Hand B)
AKQ
KJ32
AQ4
KT8
Hand A has almost enough for game by itself (very likely
to have a minimum of 6 spades tricks, two heart tricks and two diamond
tricks). If partner has as little as the K
and the 432 of spades, you can make small slam in spades. Hand B is very
strong too (22 points) and you'd like to be in a NoTrump game if partner
has as few as four points. Or, maybe partner has four hearts and a heart
game can be made. Partner is likely to have the few points we need for
game. What you'd like to do is get more information so that
you can choose the right level and strain for these hands.
What you'll have to do is make a bid that partner cannot
PASS (called a "forcing bid"). In Standard American-Yellow
Card, there is only one opening which says to partner "you must bid
until we get to game or I have limited my strength." That opening
bid is 2 .
The opening 2
bid says nothing about the club suit (you could even be void in
the suit!).
All your partner knows for sure about your hand when you make this bid
is that you have a very strong hand and that game or even slam (!) is
very likely even if she holds only a few points. If she holds more
than a few points, slam should definitely be investigated.
So, when do you decide to open 2 ?
Well, it depends on the answer to the question, "Are we looking for
a game in notrump or in a suit?"
Opening 2
when you have a good notrump hand
When you hold a distributionally flat hand (see the and enough
(or nearly enough) points for game, there are two ways to open the hand:
-
- You open 2
to tell partner that you are very strong, then as your next bid
you bid the cheapest NT bid (usually 2NT). This shows
a hand worth 23-24 points and a flat distribution.
Partner can, after that 2NT bid, use some of the conventions
that we've studied before. That is, she can bid
- 3C (Stayman asking you to bid a four card major),
- 3D (Jacoby transfer to hearts),
- 3H (Jacoby transfer to spades),
- 3NT ("let's play in a no trump
game"), or
- 4C (Gerber, asking for aces).
Partner is also allowed to PASS if she has no reason to
bid further (zero points and 4-3-3-3 distribution is one possibility),
but she should try to bid again if she has any reason
to do so since she only needs about two points
to have enough for game.
- You open 2
to tell partner that you are very strong, and then bid 4NT
(or a jump in notrump [A jump is one more
than you have to bid]). This shows a tremendous hand
(usually 28-30 points) and flat distribution.
Stayman and Jacoby transfers are not usually used after the 4NT
bid. Responder should raise to 6NT with 5-7 points and a
flat hand because the partnership has 33-37 points.
If responder has a suit to play in, she should bid game or slam
in the suit depending on her points and distribution. Unfortunately
the bidding here can sometimes have guesses associated with them,
but the responder knows they need to be in slam and should do her
best to choose what's likely to be a good strain and level. [Experts
often use other, more complicated conventions to help prevent these
problems, but just how much do you want to remember right now?]
- In SA-YC, opening 3NT shows a hand with
25-27 points.
Responder can PASS this bid, since you didn't make a forcing
bid. However, we're at game with 3N, so if she's really "broke"
[0 points] then she can PASS and
feel confident that you'll take oodles of tricks with all those aces
and kings and queens and jacks (oh my!).
She can also use Stayman (4C response asking you to bid a four card
major) and Jacoby transfers (a 4D or 4H response) after your 3NT
opener.
Opening 2
on a hand with a good suit
This one's a bit tougher, but not terribly so. [Take a deep
breath... relax...] According to the Standard American-Yellow Card pamphlet,
it shows "at least 22+ points or the playing equivalent". Points
we've already discussed, but what in the world does "or the playing
equivalent" mean? Well, in order to do that we have to take a side
trip into what makes a suit a strong suit. I'll tell you about something
called the "Losing Trick Count".
Losing Trick Count
Since you're interested in getting to game you should have about
nine tricks to take in your hand. But, how do you count
your trick-taking potential? One common way is to use the Losing
Trick Count (LTC).
Look at each suit in your hand, one at a time, and look
at the top cards that you have in that suit.
- If you are void in the suit,
you have zero losers;
- If you have a singleton and it is
not the ace, you have one loser;
- If you have a doubleton, each
card that is not the ace or king is another loser; and,
- If you have a three-card or longer
suit, each card in the top three cards only that
is not the ace, king or queen is a loser. HOWEVER,
if you hold the Q without either the A, K, J or T, we have
one more loser than we counted at first. [The Q is
not "backed up" by another honor.]
It may sound complicated, but don't worry. Once you get used to
it, it's pretty easy.
Let's just look at a few examples. We're only going to look at
one suit for this practice, but remember that you have to do it
for each of the four suits when you count up the whole
hand.
|
a)
AJT987 |
The top three
cards are A, J and T. We don't have the K and Q, so we have two
losers. |
b)
KQ |
With a doubleton
suit, we count each non-ace or non-king card as a loser so we
have one loser. |
c)
AQ432 |
We don't have
the K in the top 3, so we have one loser
(Note that the Q is backed up by the A.) |
d)
A |
We have a singleton
and it is the ace. Therefore, we have no/zero
losers! |
e)
KJ74
|
We're missing
the A and Q of spades, so we have two losers.
|
f)
Q8532 |
We're missing
the A and K of spades, so we initially count two losers. However,
the Q is not backed up with another honor, so we
have an extra loser. Thus, we have three
losers. |
Now that you know
how to count losers (by LTC) you subtract the total number of
losers from 13 (the number of cards you hold). The idea is that
we'd wish every card in our hand would win a trick (13
winners), so we subtract the number of "losers"
in our hand from those 13 winners and we'll be left with cards
that have the best potential to take tricks: the "real"
winners.
The resulting number of "winners" gives you an idea
of the "trick taking potential" of your hand. Thus with
Hand A shown at the beginning of the lesson, we'd determine its
trick taking potential in this way.
A)
AKQ9765
AK
AQJ
2 [26 points with length]
AKQ9765 has no losers,
AK has no losers,
AQJ has one loser and
2 has one loser.
This totals to two losers. Subtract 2 from 13 and we get 11 playing
tricks. WOW!!
Let's try one more full hand for LTC:
AJT5
AQJT873
K
K [21 points with length]
AJT5 has two losers,
AQJT873 has one loser,
K has one loser, and
K has one loser.
This totals to five losers. Subtract 5 from 13 and we get 8 playing
tricks.
LTC is just another way to assess the strength of the hand.
You can use it along with counting points to give you an
idea of how good your hand is. It is most commonly used
with distributional hands (not flat hands). It isn't quite as
helpful if the hand is flat and I'd recommend just sticking with
point count for the flat hands. |
Now, if you have a distributional hand with
9 playing tricks (possibly 8 if we have Js,
Ts, 9s, and 8s in our long suits) we can open 2
and then at our next turn bid our long suit. This tells partner that we
have a "strong hand" (2 ,
remember?) but it's not necessarily in high card points (since we
didn't bid NT ). Most players will expect that you hold at least
17 HCP if you open 2
and then bid a suit. Your partner is expected to bid until the bidding has
gone past 3 of your major suit (or 4 of your minor suit).
RESPONDING TO A 2
OPENING BID: 2 -?
If partner opens 2 ,
you have a major duty: do NOT PASS.
Opener has told you that you must
bid because she holds either a flat hand with lots of points or a good playing
hand with a good suit.
What do you need to tell opener? You need to tell her if:
- you hold 8-10 points and a relatively flat hand;
- you hold more than 8 points (or so) with a five-card
major suit, or;
- you don't hold either of these.
This is for your first response only:
- 2
- "I hold 8 or more points and at least five good hearts. We must
keep bidding until we reach a game of some sort and we should be interested
in seeing if a slam can be bid."
- 2
- "I hold 8 or more points and at least five good spades. We must
keep bidding until we reach a game of some sort and we should be interested
in seeing if a slam can be bid."
- 2NT - "I hold 8-10 points and a relatively
flat hand (no singletons)."
- 3
- "I hold 8 or more points and at least five good clubs. We must
keep bidding until we reach a game of some sort and we should be interested
in seeing if a slam can be bid."
- 2
- "I hold none of the above. I might have 8 or more
points with an unbalanced hand or no long major suit and I'm waiting
for you to tell me more about your hand. or
I might hold zero points and am just 'doing my duty' to bid."
The 2
bid is often referred to as a "waiting" bid even if you have a
"pointless" hand. Opener does not know which kind of hand you
have. You can tell her more after she's told you more about her hand.
Generally, any non-2
response shows a "good hand" (8+ points). If the bid is in a suit,
then it shows a long suit. With a good hand, you don't need to jump a level.
Opener won't PASS with good cards, so you'll get a chance to bid
again.
If you have a long, decent minor suit, you might either:
- bid it at the 3-level with 10 or more points (higher
level = more points), or;
- make a waiting bid and then bid the suit after you've
heard what kind of hand partner has.
(NOTE: It is probably best to treat long suits with
no honors as weak suits initially. Once partner has told you what kind of
good hand she has, you can then make a better evaluation of what the long
suit is worth.)
OPENER'S REBID AFTER RESPONDER MAKES A
NON-WAITING RESPONSE:
2 -(not
2 );?
If you have a long, strong suit of your own, bid it at the lowest level
you can.
Why? Partner has shown that you easily have enough points for game
and should start looking for slam. However, you haven't told partner that
what you have is a long strong suit of your own. Thus, you need to tell
her that.
You don't need to jump (which, as we'll see in a later lesson, usually needed
to show a strong hand after you open something different than 2 ).
You've already shown strength with the 2
opener and partner has shown some points with the non-2
bid.
With hand A above, after you open 2
and partner responds 2 ,
you would bid 2 .
If you have a strong, but flat hand, bid NT . If you hold 22-24 points,
bid NT at the cheapest level. If you hold 28-30 points, jump two
levels of NT . If you hold 31-33 points, ... uh... PASS the
smelling salts please!!! Well, you get the idea.
Thus with hand B above, you opened 2
and partner responded 2 ,
you then bid 2NT. Partner will NOT PASS this. Remember, you've
shown 22-24 points and responder has shown AT LEAST 8 points. This is MORE
than enough for game. If you have three card support for partner's suit,
you can bid them at your next turn.
If you have a strong, flat hand and partner responds 2NT,
you should evaluate your hand and bid accordingly. If you have 22 points,
bid 3NT. It doesn't seem likely that partner's 10 points will be
enough to ensure that 6NT will make. If you hold 23-24 points, bid
4NT (yes, it's a jump bid). This asks partner to bid 6NT if
she hold 9 (good) or 10 points. If you hold 25-28 points, the partnership
total points are 33-36 points: enough for small slam, but not enough for
grand slam. Just bid 6NT. Finally, if you hold 29-32 points (if partner's
honest, you can't hold more than 32 since she holds 8 points), bid 7NT.
OPENER'S REBID AFTER RESPONDER MAKES A "WAITING"
RESPONSE:
2 -2 ;?
Opener's rebids will be similar to the ones above: either bid your long,
strong suit, or bid the correct level of NT to show your points.
You've now told partner just about everything about your hand, so it's up
to partner to decide what to do. Partner, with any justification
at all, should try to bid to some sort of game based on what she knows about
your hand. If you've bid 2NT, partner may PASS, bid 3
Stayman or use Jacoby transfers, Gerber (4 ),
or 4NT (inviting you to bid 6NT if you have the top of your
declared range (24 or a really good 23 in this case).
RESPONDER'S REBID AFTER A WAITING RESPONSE:
2C-2D;(opener's rebid)-?
Responder's rebid depends a bit on what opener has said about
her hand:
- Opener has said she has a 22-24 NT -type hand
(2
-2 ;
2N- ?)
Responder can use almost all of the conventions that she could use after
a 1NT or 2NT opener. Stayman, Jacoby transfers, and Gerber
(you need a good hand for this though: 11+ points) can all be used.
The minor-suit bust transfer (3 )
and the invitational-minor-suit bids (4
-- beware: this won't work anyway since this is Gerber! -- or
4 )
are probably best not used when partner has shown this strong
a hand.
If you don't have enough for game but two or more points you can bid
3NT (game in NT ). If you hold a long minor suit and very
few points (1 or less), you can PASS since the partnership doesn't
hold enough points for game.
If you hold a long minor suit and a Ax or Kx (maybe even Qxx) in another
suit, you should bid 3NT. You hope that partner will be able
to use up opponent's high cards in your long suit quickly, and then
use your "outside" high card to get to the rest of your "length"
cards to take tricks. Honors (A, K, Q, J, T) in the suit itself are
good, but it's also good if you have an honor in an outside suit.
If you have a really long minor suit (seven cards in the suit
at least) and a very weak hand, you can try bidding game in the minor
suit. Opener will most likely PASS (unless she has a "perfect"
hand for your bidding).
- Opener has a strong hand with a strong suit
[2C
-2D ;(opener
rebids in a suit)- ?]: In this case, you
should assume that opener has five cards in that suit and make some
judgement about what strain and level the hand should be played in.
However, in this bidding, you cannot PASS until
opener has bid more than 3 of her major suit or 4 of her minor suit.
You must make some sort of bid. If you have few or no points,
bid 2NT. (Opener will know you don't have 8-10 and a flat hand
since you didn't bid 2NT the first time.) If opener rebids the
same suit, you are permitted to PASS if you have no reason to
bid further.
If responder has any support for the suit and a few points (should have
no more than 10 losers by LTC), show the support. For example,
Whew!!!! Caught your breath?? Yes, there's a lot here and
it will take some practice to get it all "stuffed in your head",
but the practice is worth it when you or your partner gets one of these
terrific hands.
| Your hand, bidding and
what you're saying |
Partner's hand, bidding and what
she's saying |
AK
AKQJT
32
A65 |
QJ83
872
KJ54
T7 |
2
("Partner, do I have good news for you!") |
2
("That's nice. Tell me a little more about it!") |
2
("I have a long strong, heart suit too") |
3
("How nice, partner! I have at least three cards in hearts myself.
I do have a few points or 10 or fewer losers. Wanna think about
slam?") |
4
("Well, I have a great hand but you're going to need a bit extra
if we want to think about slam.") |
PASS.
("Ok. I don't really have all that much, but just wanted to let
you know.") |
If you can't support opener's suit and have a long suit in your hand, you
can (with a few points or 10 or fewer losers) bid your own suit. Opener
may rebid her suit to show an even longer suit. In this case, you should
NOT PASS (you didn't bid 2NT to show "next to nothing").
Find another bid that describes your hand to opener: raise the suit with
only two cards, but another long suit, rebid your long suit, etc. Since
you have something in your hand, you should not stop short of game.
These bidding sequences require good listening. "What
has partner told me? Do I know enough to know where and how high to play
the hand?" If you don't know the answers, what more do you need to
tell partner so that maybe she can make this decision?
|